Planning on visiting some of the youngest and newest lands on earth? well, my fellow travelers’ let’s get on board where I will share some of my experiences both good and bad which might help you plan your trip to the Island of Hawaii also nicknamed as Big Island.
The most important thing before visiting Big Island is to pack clothes and prepare a mindset to experience all the climates from wet tropical to polar tundra. But, it’s interesting because within a span of an hour or so you get to experience so many different climates. We visited the island from December 30th,2021 to January 7th,2022. Hence we divided our stay mainly between the dry side(Kona area) and the wet side(Hilo area) and one day around the north as well. Above all, we did buy an audio tour guide named gypsyguide that plays as you drive along the way giving amazing descriptions about the area and places that are worth visiting even narrating stories about the island, how it was formed who ruled the island, how it was united and so on. It is definitely worth it to get the tour guide, we enjoyed it thoroughly. It’s like listening to stories while driving. I highly recommend giving it a try, navigating listening to the narrator is very perfect and accurate.
Our Experience
Day 1
We took Alaska Airlines from Los Angeles(LAX) to fly to Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport(KOA) in the late afternoon so by the time we land at the Kona Airport, it was already dark outside so we came out of the airport and headed straight to the resort. But I must mention Kona Airport is way too different than the other airports, it’s open and breezy with small temple-like buildings/airport offices. Felt very beautifully different. After we were out of the flight we were greeted with Aloha which we got to know has such a deep meaning to it. People really are so welcoming and kind.
We had booked our stay at the Hilton Waikoloa Village for 2 nights, it’s an amazing property not very far from the airport. There are a lot of options to spend time with family at the resort. It did take us an entire day to enjoy partially the amenities of the resort. They in fact have a huge collection of artifacts displayed on the way to other buildings/property, worth spending some time to appreciate the collectibles. It has got pools and cabanas, saltwater lagoons, dolphins on the property, a boat ride, a train ride to different parts of the resort along with cultural events and dining. I even went ahead to participate in an activity. Variety of options to choose from starting with yoga, Lei making, bracelet making with beads, and many more. It was kind of a rest day for us the night we reached had dinner at the resort and tried lilikoi dressing on the salad for the first time which was delicious, I can still remember the distinct taste of the dressing. Just took a small stroll around the property saw some lighting and went ahead to our building on the train which was fun.
Day 2
It wasn’t the alarm that woke us up rather it was the chirruping of birds that did, and we were glad we woke up to see the sunrise and what a sunrise, rays falling onto the mountains in front giving a violet hue and greenery all around, ocean calm yet welcoming with small waves. It was just perfect to have started the trip officially.
After breakfast, I went ahead to go for a bracelet-making activity which was fun and I did complete it within 15 minutes. Later I decided to register for another Lei-making activity but the slot was filled so, it’s recommended to reach early to the venue approximately 10 to 15 minutes before.
Tried very famous Kona coffee for the first time in the resort and strolled around the property, clicking photos and looking at the ocean waves crashing onto the lava rocks. Could see people getting ready for pool time along with people swimming on the lagoon. Activities with the dolphins were fun to watch. There is a particular place in the resort where we could see white rocks which was a total contrast to the landscape. Later, we decided to enjoy our time in the pool. It was really big but not so deep, with a small slider and waterfall fountain along with hot tubs in case you want to relax more.
That was mostly it for the day, we had a great time relaxing at the resort, got the rental car to head towards the north side of the island the very next day.
Day 3
After we had checked out of the resort, we drove north to hike to Pololu valley lookout which is without a doubt one of the most beautiful landscapes. It’s so green and flourishing, waves crashing on the black sand/stone beach. It’s kind of an easy hike down to the valley but watch out if it’s raining(go with proper gear). We do check Alltrails and read reviews before we take up a hike. After spending some time at the mouth of the valley we made our way to Honokane Nui Lookout to get a panoramic view of the island and the valley. It was not raining the day we hiked so the road was much better, a bit slippery and muddy at some parts but once we reached the top, the forest opened up to an undisturbed view of the Valley, just breathtaking and such a blessed feeling it was. After spending quite a lot of time we made our way back to the parking lot, it was already afternoon and very tiring for me at least. In summary, the hike was kind of a “V” shaped! You start from the top, go down and then go up and finally return back the same path.
Later that afternoon we went to Waimea, thoroughly enjoying our drive crossing pasture land with cattle grazing. We took a coffee break at Waimea. Along the way, we could also see Mauna Kea which is pretty fascinating. We even took stops at various fruit stands by the road. Fruits are definitely must-tries when in Hawaii. Finally, we made it to the final destination of the night, we had booked a bed and breakfast place via bookings.com, it was in a pretty amazing area just a few minutes away from the very famous Waipio Valley, where we went for the spectacular sunset.
Day 4
What comes to your mind when you think of a steep road? Take your time.
The road to Waipio Valley is no joke, and we had this idea of hiking down one of the steepest roads in the US. The steep gradient can even reach up to 40% or more. Well, we parked our vehicle near the parking lot at Waipiʻo Valley Lookout Parking. The Lookout opens up to panoramic views of the ocean and cliffs, the valley looks dense and mysterious. We started hiking down really fine full of energy but it all went away after coming down 100 feet or so. Let’s be real, it was so steep/ felt steep literally I more than a couple of times slipped standing. But we were determined to hike down so I took off my hiking sandal and walked barefoot, it wasn’t a pleasant experience but, once we reached down the valley, we were surrounded by black sands and watched the river joining the ocean, it all felt worth it. It was a blissful experience and totally beautiful.
We were very lucky enough, it was because of the generosity of two amazing people who offered us a ride to the parking lot while hiking up and we made it safely smiling.
We had a very keen interest in having malasada which is basically a Portuguese fried dough, more like a doughnut yet so delicious. We tried malasada at Tex Drive-In, which is a really nice place to grab breakfast. Later, made our way to Laupāhoehoe Beach Park, which is kind of like a peninsula where you can see waves in action. It’s was an amazing place to take a break while on the way to Hilo.
Next, the place we went to was Akaka Falls State Park, it has a $10 parking plus $5 per person fee but since it was very rush and we did not get any parking spot in the lot, we had to park on the road as others had already done. So, we did not have to pay for the parking except for the per person fee. Akaka Falls Trail was the one we took, it’s an easy loop all paved of about 0.5 miles full of lush forests and greenery. We could see numerous falls on our way and the presence of vast diversity of flora is spectacular. Well seeing this greenery I felt, welcome to the wet side of Big Island.
Finally, we made it to Hilo where we had planned to stay for three nights.
Day 5
We had been waiting for this day since we made our plan to visit Hawaii as it was something we had never experienced before. Yes, it was the day we went to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. We started our day early so that we can cover as much as possible in a single day, even hoping to see the lava flow which was kind of on the level around the time of our visit.
We directly went to Kilauea Visitor Center and inquired about the ever-changing landscapes/current conditions in the park. And, I highly recommend giving a visit and knowing the situation and it was because of it we got to know about the lava flow situation. Park rangers even informed us about the website to track/know about the current lava glow situation. For more detailed information about our visit check out my blog.
Initially, we did the Halema’uma’u Steam Bluff and Sulfur Banks trail which was a very easy walk/hike, all well paved and marked. Highly recommended to stay on the trail because it can be dangerous to go on to those vents and gases. It kind of smells weird/ rotten egg but looks different in a way. The views are spectacular and unbelievable. After the walk, we went to Kilauea Overlook, though the overlook was closed after the 2018 eruption, there is a marked area up to which you can walk to soak in the view of the crater with fumes/steam vents coming out of the crater.
Next, we had plans to go on a hike to Kilauea Iki Crater, and we took the Kilauea Iki Trail, it’s one of the most beautiful hikes we have ever done to reach the down from where the crater starts. It is almost covered on the way down but once you reach the Kilauea Iki crater and start walking on the hardened lava rocks there is no shade at all, so highly recommended to carry water. Since we wanted to cover other places as well we did return after walking some time in the crater and finally made our way back the same path. On our way back we crossed the road and went on to explore Nahuku – Thurston Lava Tube it’s basically a tube formed by lava flow. What happens is when the lava flows and the outermost part cools down, the lava on the inside flushes out and forms into a tube-like structure. Feels very unreal and extraordinary. It’s a cool place to check it out. There are a few restaurants in the Volcano House to grab lunch or so.
After lunch, we took the Chain of Craters Road and I must say the views are beyond amazing. There are many stops which are well marked to take a break and see the views and I’m pretty sure it won’t even be sufficient. There was one random stop we took whose location I will put “here“, views open up to a stretch of lava land with the ocean on the side, felt so surreal. Finally the road turnaround at Chain of Craters Road Turnaround where you can park your vehicle and walk up to the lookout of Hōlei Sea Arch to catch the sunset. It’s an easy straight walk but please be mindful and stay in the designated area for your own safety.
Finally, we turned back and went back to take a walk on the Devastation Trail, the scenery is entirely different yet beautiful. We didn’t have much time because it was already sunset so walked around 0.3 miles or so, and returned back. Thereafter made our way back to our stay at Hilo.
Day 6
It was our last day at Hilo. So, we wanted to explore places in and around Hilo. We tried out one of the local bakeries for breakfast and started our day officially. The first destination on our itinerary was Rainbow Falls. It’s a beautiful waterfall, just a small walk from the parking lot. We did rely on gypsy guide for the drive, and it was pretty accurate. Now we drove to a beautiful place to look at the Boiling Pots, a scenic overlook situated a small walk from the parking lot. The viewpoint is by the side of Wailuku River along with Peepee Falls at the distance, and you see numerous terraced pools-like appearance, so when the water level on those pools rises it becomes turbulent and appears to be boiling hence the name. The next stop was Kaumana Caves as suggested by the gypsy guide app. The caves are so cool, looks like a storybook illustration. There are stairs to go down but if you are not comfortable just watch it from the top. It’s a good place to take a break.
It was a very relaxing day for us on the Island, we drove around the city, we loved Banyan Dr. If you have time at least for 15 Minutes just drive through the Banyan Drive, the road is literally beautiful with giant banyan trees by the side. The most fascinating thing about the place is, they look so symmetric. Tried out some Local Restaurants and had lots of coconut water which we got from a farmer’s market. We really liked Cafe Pesto Hilo Bay. Hopped onto different souvenir shops and that is it for the day. We really wanted to visit the Mauna Loa farm but was temporarily closed. So, had to buy macadamia nuts from Costco! We used to have dinner at kamana kitchen almost every night because we really liked it.
Day 7
We started the day really early because we had to reach Kona before noon as we had booked a stargazing tour to Mauna Kea. While on our way we did stop at Hawai’i Volcanoes National park to catch the sunrise. After that, the next stop we took Punaluʻu Beach which is a very beautiful black sand beach, we were again hopeful about seeing some sea turtles but could not. But it’s worth it to spend some time at the beautiful beach. Now since we had enough time we decided to drive to the most southern point in the US, south point. The drive is pleasant with rolling hills, ranch, and windmills. After a quick stop, we made our way back to Kona. The first stop at Kona was Magic Sands Beach Park, it’s a spectacular white sand beach with some amazing size wave action. Highly recommended to visit this particular beach if you are around. The entire drive was amazing with different scenery throughout. Finally had lunch at an Indian Restaurant and headed towards our pickup location.
We had booked a tour through Hawaii Forest & trail and our tour included Mauna Kea summit and stargazing along with that we did go to a Waikoloa dry forest, where we did an activity of picking seeds of wiliwili tree. It was definitely a small contribution from our side to help grow more of those trees. There is even an option to sponsor a tree, and once it is planted they send you the certificate and GPS location of the tree, you can even name it. We have sponsored and it feels good.
Our tour guide was so knowledgeable, he did give a lot of information about the place and told so many interesting stories throughout the drive to the visitor center of Mauna Kea, where we did take a break from the further climb to acclimatized because of the higher elevation and so, had an early dinner which was served by the tour company(meals to be selected in advance). I must mention dinner was delicious at that elevation. Our tour guide took us for a walk near the visitor center and we got to see Silverswords which was something unique and beautiful, got to know how rare the plant which flowers once in its life along with that it can live between 3 years and 90 years or more. After returning to the tour bus we got to know that the summit will be closed for visitors because of snow. What a bummer it felt.
Well, we were at around 9200 feet so our guide encouraged us saying we can still get amazing views of the stars if the sky is clear. We did go to a spot to catch the sunset but we were surrounded by clouds which can be obvious at that elevation. One more thing I would like to mention is that it can be very cold up there at that elevation. We were recommended to wear layers. Even if the temperature is not that low you will feel it in the air. Still, the tour company provided Parka Jackets(you can select the size beforehand).
Our tour guide drove us to a parking lot just near the visitor center and started setting up the telescope. It was my first time experiencing the views from a telescope. Since it’s one of the places where there is almost no light pollution, which is one of the reasons why there are observatories at the summit. I want to confess here something, I have literally never seen so many stars in my entire life. My eyes were not able to contain what it was looking at. We wanted to live in that moment, so beautiful it was words won’t ever be able to explain. We did see some of the stars and planets. Jupiter, Saturn(rings were amazing), Milkyway, Moon(one of my favorites), and many more. Meanwhile, we were offered hot chocolate(again at that elevation and cold, it felt so satisfying). After watching through the telescopes and with bare eyes, the whole experience felt complete and we did not even regret we could not go to the summit. Tour was over around 10 PM, dropped us at the same pickup location. I will put down some of the night photography we did, we are newbies it wasn’t that perfect but we tried.
Hawaii Forest & Trail, which was the tour company even returned back some percentage of the fee because the tour was not able to go to the summit on that particular day. Such a kind gesture of the tour company.
Day 8
Well, it was our last day to explore the Big Island, so started our day by having breakfast at The Coffee Shack, they got delicious food and an amazing ocean view. After that, we went to Greenwell Farms. If you have time do give it a visit, you can go on a free Kona coffee tour which takes around an hour maximum. We did take the tour and our impression of coffee has totally changed. Our guide explained and took us to see coffee plants how they are dried, how they are roasted, and many more. They do have a large variety of coffee options to taste and also, have a retail store if you want to buy any coffee. They have other plantations as well in the vicinity of the Farm. We had a good time spending knowing the journey of Kona coffee.
After the tour, we went to explore the area around Kona Farmers market on foot, so had our lunch at Kamana Kitchen and started our walk exploring the farmers market, we did buy souvenirs and had multiple stops in different beeches and around that area.
Now the highlight, we were constantly checking if the lava glow was visible. Finally, on the last night, it seemed to be visible so drove all the way to the National Park from Kona and it was totally worth it. The photos were not very clear but the experience was out of the world. There were so many people around but was total silence. Seemed like everyone wanted to watch it in peace.
Day 9
We started our day by going to Costco because we had to buy macadamia nuts. After brunch, we headed towards the Airport to start our journey to the next Island on our Itinerary – Maui. Hope to catch you soon on the Maui and another blog post.